• BEAUTY SPHERE

News, innovations, customer experience … this month, in the Beauty Sphere, ARTHES tells you all about the world of cosmetics and perfume!

NOVELTIES

PERFUME

A DROP D’ISSEY, A NEW WAY TO SEE THE WORLD

Japanese designer Issey Miyake immerses us in his poetic and imaginary world where nature reigns. His new Eau de parfum for women, A Drop d’Issey, inspired by a drop of water, transforms our vision of the world when we look through the clear bottle . The magnifying glass effect of the bottle distorts surrounding objects and makes us see things in a bigger way.

The perfume company has produced a fragrance to reveal what cannot be seen by the naked eye. This is the poetic metaphor that the designer wants to convey.

The minimalistic design of the fragrance and purity of its transparency and the simplicity of white cap seduces us. It should be added that this unique bottle was designed to be laid flat.

Alongside perfumer Ane Ayo, the designer has carefully chosen raw quality materials to ensure French manufacturing.

OLFACTORY NOTES

Family : floral

Orange blossom, Damask rose, and almond milk , a trio of voluptuous, soft and delicate scents. These floral and milky notes blend perfectly with anise and the sunny notes of lilac and jasmine. In the base notes, vanilla, musk, ambroxan and Atlas cedar leave a more lasting impression on the fragrance.

Capacity : between 30-90 ml 

Price : between 36-69,50€

A NEW VERSION OF THE GUCCI FLORA GORGEOUS GARDENIA FRAGRANCE

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Gucci house, Alessandro Michele is revisiting the iconic women’s Eau de parfum, Flora Gorgeous Gardenia, launched in 2012 by the brand’s former artistic director, Frida Giannini. Singer Miley Cyrus has been chosen as the muse of the fragrance, to represent a whimsical and floral universe specific to the Italian house. The fragrance’s video campaign, directed by Petra Collins, was revisited in the form of a Japanese anime by Akihiko Ota, which you should not miss ; available on their Instagram account @guccibeauty (https://www.instagram.com/p/CSHkaJNA-4p/ ).

The packaging has been redecorated to follow the designer’s artistic line. Indeed, the bottle, has been elongated and the pink lacquered color from the designers first ever, launched by Alessandro Michele, Bloom has made its comeback , as well as the floral designs true to the style of the “Flora” motif from 1966, created by the artist Vittorio Accornero especially for Gucci.

OLFACTORY NOTES

Family : floral

The fragrance has retained its key notes of gardenia flower, jasmine grandiflorum flower, pear tree flower, patchouli and brown sugar. To this are added notes of Italian mandarin, red fruits and frangipani flower.

Capacity : 100ml

Price : 129€

THE FIRST UNISEX FRAGRANCE FOR FENTY BEAUTY

The singer and businesswoman Rihanna never ceases to surprise us. She is expanding her beauty brand with FENTY Eau de Parfum Unisex. Just announced on Instagram and Tik Tok, the launch of her unisex fragrance has already drawn crowds. Unveiled in a short, minimalistic ASMR video, the fragrance is warmly coloured and the bottle is slightly transparent, the cap is engraved with a stylized logo, and the bright blue case is a reminder of the young FENTY house’s iconic colours (https://www.instagram.com/p/CR2gYsIgNMf/ ).

This creation is the result of the collaboration between LVMH‘s beauty incubator, Kendo, and Louis Vuitton‘s sole perfumer, Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, revealing a sweet and spicy fragrance.

OLFACTORY NOTES

Family : oriental

Magnolia flower blends with musk, mandarin and blueberry bringing softness and sensuality to the fragrance. This is followed by the more intense notes of Bulgarian rose, geranium and patchouli.

Capacity : 75 ml

Price : 120$

SUNSCREEN, THE NEW UNISEX SUMMER FRAGRANCE FROM COMME DES GARÇONS

The newest unisex fragrance Sunscreen from Comme des Garçons has quite the reaction. The scent, created in collaboration with the Venice Beach-based label ERL “Eli Russell Linnetz” , is the result of a two year craftsmanship that perfectly encapsulates summer’s timeless washed out glow

The perfume was inspired by Venice Beach and the California Coast, the relaxed climate , the ocean waves ridden by surfers, streetwear and the typically cool lifestyle all in one bottle.

The combination of vanilla ice cream, the ocean and coconut water creates a scent that’s essentially summer in a bottled. Haven taken so long to develop the team has mastered the blend, evoking the nostalgia of being by the sea in the summer as you’re covered in sunscreen and having a blast

Everything about this creation reminds us of the sunny season all down to is packaging. The perfume bottle is sold in a laser-cut foam box and is placed in a suspended manner giving the impression that it is floating. A limited-edition version features the bottle in an inflatable capsule giving the same floating effect.

OLFACTORY NOTES

Family : floral

The first notes of Bergamot oil and sunny accords mingle with notes of lily of the valley, heliotrope and peach. Coconut adds a summery touch to the fragrance . But notes of cedar oil and musk balance out the predominant summer scents.

Capacity : 50ml

Price : 90€

COSMETICS

A HYBRID AND INCLUSIVE BEAUTY COLLECTION FOR GEN Z, BY YVES SAINT LAURENT

Gen Z, a product for the new generation .

These young consumers are constantly looking for innovative ideas and experiences, but also want to feel valued and unique. Inclusiveness is a value dear to Gen Z

Yves Saint Laurent has understood this by launching its brand-new hybrid beauty collection, specially created for and with this generation, called “NU“. The name fits perfectly with the brand’s values of freedom and authenticity.

By wearing these more affordable make-up and skincare products, consumers accept their imperfections, show them off and wear them proudly.

The collection introduces a lightweight all inclusive tinted moisturizing cream that is cool to the touch and buildable.
NU Bare Look Tint, and NU Glow in Baume , contain natural rosat extract and shea butter for a 24-hour hydration, to be applied with or without make-up.

There is also a daily plumping and moisturizing spray, a concealer to illuminate the face and a mattifying lotion to reduce the appearance of pores.

Most of the raw materials used come are from their very own community gardens in Ourika, Morocco, where harvesting is done with respect for nature and people.

On the Instagram account @yslbeauty, Gen Z speaks out and delivers positive messages about self-confidence and invites us to assume who we are. (https://www.instagram.com/p/CSP552Ut5nF/ )

INFINITELY REUSABLE EYES PATCHES, BY SEASONLY

Since protective masks have been introduced to our daily life , the eyes are more than ever the area of the face to be beautified. Confronted by rubbing, irritation, and under-eye bags from all the sleepless nights it is time to give them the attention they deserve.

The French brand Seasonly, which above all sees beauty as a moment of pleasure, has taken an interest in this part of the face by unveiling its brand-new product: “Eyes Patchs” that can be used repeatedly.

Once the moisturizing face cream or the more concentrated eye cream has been applied, these patches are to be placed under the eyes for about ten minutes, thus boosting the effectiveness of the active ingredients present in the creams.

It will allow the skin to absorb the product and leave an instant result. The eyes will appear more relaxed, and luminous

Made from skin-friendly and environmentally friendly silicone, this cosmetic product also contains avocado extract.

The patches are sold in a metal box for easy storage and can be rinsed under warm water, with or without soap.

COSMETICS

WHAT IS “BLUE BEAUTY”?

This term, created by Jeannie Jarnot, the creator of the online platform Beauty Heroes, is the latest beauty movement committed to the planet. This commitment focuses specifically on the impact that cosmetic products have on the ocean, this has become a major concern for brands.

From plastic-free packaging, to non-toxic ingredients, to reduced manufacturing emissions and other elements of a product’s lifecycle, everything must be rethought in favour of the marine world.

Consumers are also increasingly aware of the environmental impact of the products they use. According to an Accenture report, 60% of customers are buying more sustainable and ethical brands since the start of the global Covid-19 pandemic.

Could Blue Beauty be the trend to surf in 2022?

The following brands are the proof that clean, ocean-friendly beauty is accessible.

(see following slides)

A BIOLOGICAL ALTERNATIVE TO SHARK SQUALENE BY BIOSSANCE

Squalene, is a natural substance found in the sebum of our skin, however as we age, the amount of squalene we produce decreases.

Therefore, many beauty brands use squalene in their skin care ranges, in order to keep our skin moisturized and plumb. Unfortunately, the active ingredient used in the majority of beauty products is none other than squalene from shark liver oil. Millions of sharks die in this process.

This is why the Canadian brand Biossance is committed to protecting the marine species by offering products containing vegetal squalane from sugar cane. This organic alternative has the same moisturizing properties. In addition, this ingredient is 100% renewable and bio-fermented. It also requires less water and does not cause any form of deforestation. In order to offer 100% clean products, the brand has also thought about the packaging, using sugar cane for their manufacture.

Thus, Biossance offers a multi-purpose oil composed of 100% squalane oil, but also a probiotic gel, a serum or an exfoliating mask for the face and others, ensuring a complete hydration of the body.

A NEW WAY TO WASH WITH THE RESPONSIBLE BRAND PLUS

Did you know that 90 percent of your shower gel is water ?! Luckily Plus brand has disrupted the body wash market with waterless cleansers.

Created by the co-founders of green skincare brand Starface, Julie Schott and Brian Bordainick, and the entrepreneur Cathryn Woodruff, the brand offers body wash products in the form of single-use cleansing sheets. Simply apply to damp skin and gently rub in for a lathering effect. The ecological innovation does not stop there. The cleansing sheets are contained in sachets that are 100% soluble in the shower. Made from wood pulp, they are totally biodegradable, leave no trace, and contain no toxic ink.

The sheets are sold 16 to a pack in a biobased, compostable zipper pouch that prevents air and moisture from getting inside.

This pioneering Blue Beauty brand produces no plastic bottles, reduces its CO2 emissions from transport by 80%, and reduces the amount of water used in the production chain by 38%.

0 WASTE CARE TABLETS BY MONO AND MERCI HANDY

Is a zero-waste skincare line possible?

The Chinese brand Mono and Belgian dermatologists have taken up the challenge, by creating body and face care tablets.

Packaged in aluminium and sent in envelopes stuffed with paper made from recycled fibers, the tablets are sold with a reusable bottle. The brand sells cleansers, deodorants, moisturizers and serums, all of which are made from 100% natural or EU certified organic ingredients. In addition, this range of skincare products is equipped with a super-hydrating prebiotic active ingredient called Prebuilin AGA as well as allantoin, which leaves a soothing effect on the skin.

The fun and colorful French brand Merci Handy has also followed the trend with its infusion shower gels. Sold with a washable glass bottle once empty, the “magic pellets” are to be immersed in hot water and left for 90 minutes, And just like that you have a sustainable shower gel! The formula is PH neutral, contains 97.5% natural ingredients, is sulphate free and doesn’t contain controversial ingredients.

Thus, this beauty innovation reduces water consumption and plastic use (materials that are affecting marine fauna and flora).

INNOVATIONS

THE NEW CRYO-RECOVERY FACE MASK BY CHARLOTTE TILBURY

Did you know that lack of sleep not only negatively affects your body, but affects the moisture levels in your skin ? Causing dark circles, puffiness, dehydrated skin and wrinkles !

But no worries there is a new quick fix on the market !

To fight against the strain of fatigue on our faces, English make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury has always believed in the power of cryotherapy, a treatment using freezing or near-freezing temperatures on the skin.
After 4 years of work, the make-up artist has announced a revolutionary and innovative product, the Cryo-Recovery face mask , which will be released on August 26. It’s designed to be used as many times as you wish as long as it is rinsed and placed in the freezer after every use.

In addition, the soothing mask has flexible silicone straps that wrap perfectly around the skin and stainless-steel balls over the eyes that act on acupressure points to stimulate lymphatic flow. This is very effective for people suffering from eye strain or even allergies.

The results ? 30 people tried out the new mask, using it regularly over an 8- week period. And the results are promising, the participants reported that their skin was lifted by 253% and firmer by 238%, depuffed and glowing.

For an even more satisfying result, the Cryo-Recovery Eye Serum is recommended, offering an optimal anti-puffiness action thanks to a formula composed of IceAwake (an antioxidant microbe taken from a glacier in Switzerland), a caffeine complex, vitamins and other powerful actives.

THE FIRST EVER CARE SHAVER BY PANASONIC

The razor, an indispensable beauty accessory for men, especially in Japan where a perfect shave is essential.

In recent years, the electric razor has become more and more popular, because it does not require any soap or water. However, skin hydration and protection are not always guaranteed.

With the new Lamdash Skincare Triple-Blade Shaver ES-MT21-H from Panasonic, shaving takes on a whole new meaning. A new built-in ion plate is the secret, when slightly wet it produces ions that open the pores.

This world’s very first “skincare shaver” can also be used as a skincare device. Simply cover the razor blades, activate the “ION” and “WARM” buttons, then run the device over the entire face to open up the pores. This will allow products applied after the treatment to penetrate the skin and moisturize it better.

It is suitable for both men and women, depending on the desired use.

Its minimalist, elegant and functional, design is very gender neutral. Grey and white tones are used to blend in perfectly with any environment.

SCENTED STICKERS FOR A SCENTED MASK, BY L’OFFICINE UNIVERSELLE BULY

Face Masks are the new trend these days ! One company sought out a breakthrough in the market.
The Parisian perfumery Officine Universelle Buly proposes an original concept of scented stickers, for a more pleasant and fragrant smell inside the mask.

Our confined faces can expect a fresh smell with, invigorating scents such as peppermint notes of eucalyptus and lemon.

This 19th century perfumery, established in various cities around the world and particularly in Asia, formulates its juices in a French laboratory, using natural ingredients. It combines old recipes and innovative technologies, for quality products .

To experience the benefits of these scented patches, simply stick one on the outside of your mask, It can last up to 6 hours depending on the type of mask used. Sold in packs of 8, these stickers are single use only.

Could this be the new fragrance accessory to watch out for?

CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE

A CUSTOMISABLE FOUNDATION MACHINE, BY ETUDE HOUSE

Personalization is one of the hottest trends of the moment.

Consumers want products that fit their needs and desires, not the other way around!

Korean brand Etude House is pushing the boundaries of customizable beauty with it’s “Foundation Factory“, available only in Korea, where you can create your own foundation.

First, several tests are carried out to analyze the skin’s depth of color and tone, the data is calculated to create an individual formula.

A machine then turns that data into your perfect foundation, the process takes about 50 minutes . With a 100 different shades to choose from, the robot offers quality foundation with long-lasting hold.

The original design of the shop is inspired by pop, with a dash of pink, See for yourself, discover Etude House virtually just click on the link below ! Both women and men are invited for a unique retail experience (https://www.instagram.com/p/CRktilYDovJ/ ).

On the European market, Lancôme is also surfing hopping on to this trend with its tailor-made beauty experience, “Le Teint Particulier“.

THE FIRST SHOP DEDICATED TO MEN’S MAKE-UP, BY WAR PRINT

Men’s make-up, popular in Asia but still not sought-after in Europe, is nevertheless beginning to make its way on the beauty market.

The men’s make-up brand War Print has officially announced the opening of its beauty space dedicated solely to men, making it the first in the world.

In its London shop on Canarby Street, War Print is showcasing its make-up line, but not only, the retail concept goes further. At the back of the store there is a non-profit barbershop, which aims to take the mind off the customers while taking care of them. Indeed, the brand is committed to supporting men’s mental health alongside the Lions Barber Collective, where barbers are trained to make the clients feel comfortable and give them the best experience possible.

A virtual assistant answers all make-up-related questions and provides the most accurate answers using advanced technology. This virtual beauty session at the entrance of the shop is also the first in the world.

The entire consumers experience is taken into account down to the smallest detail, even offering personalized foundations and moisturizers while the costumer is waiting for his turn.

CHEMISTRY TIME

LILIAL PROHIBITED IN COSMETICS AND PERFUMERY

You are probably wondering “what is Lilial“.

And yet, butylphenyl methylpropional (the correct term) is widely used in perfumery and cosmetics. Or at least it was…

In 2013, questions were being raised about this fragrance molecule, the International Fragrance Association (INFRA) submitted a report on the safety of Lilial that same year. Two years later, the European Committee of Scientific Experts (SCE) announced that the ingredient was not safe to use.

Indeed, this synthetic molecule responsible for the fresh and floral smell of some perfumes, is now part of the regulatory classification of dangerous chemical agents CMR (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, Reprotoxic), in category 1B (presumed effects on health). Lilial is considered to be an endocrine disruptor and would be potentially carcinogenic and toxic.

Therefore, it will be officially banned from the European market on the 1rst of March 2022.

This ban will lead to the withdrawal of products containing this ingredient but will launch the search of its substitute. Non-compliance with this ban will be sanctioned by injunctions, financial penalties and also by Sanitary Police Decisions (SPD).